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Phase 1: Jacking & Supporting Options

 
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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Location: Littleborough

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 5:43 pm    Post subject: Phase 1: Jacking & Supporting Options Reply with quote

I am hoping to start some work on the car now, with a view to getting it through it's MOT, other commitments permitting.
I am not an experienced mechanic / restorer.
I have a domestic garage, trolley jack (no axle stands yet) and hand tools.
I am willing to buy more equipment and tools as required, for the long term.

As a starting point I am wondering about the best options for safely lifting the car up and supporting it while I work on it?

Jacking Points?
1) The built-in tubular steel jacking points have rusted away. Do I need them?
2) LH & RH ends of the front sub-frame, with timber packers to flush fill the recess in the bodywork?
3) I assume jacking the centre of the sub-frame is not recommended, unless using some form of beam to spread the load to the LH & RH ends?
4) The flat, horizontal, perimeter bodywork behind the front wheel arches and in front of the rear wheel arches look strong enough to jack with 18mm plywood load spreaders?
5) Ditto the flat, horizontal bodywork behind the rear axle? Plus, can I centre jack this area, using a spreader beam?
6) Should I be looking at other / better methods of lifting the car, than trolley jack?

Support?
1) My trolley jack gives 500mm maximum lift, but I could improvise more.
2) What is the ideal height of the underside of the bodywork above ground for easy access for maintenance and remove / install engine, gearbox, axle?
3) Axle stands seem to be limited to approx. 500mm height?
4) Are there other types of 'stands' available that give more height?

Does that covers it?
Any advice / information / feedback is welcome.
Thanks.
Alan
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TonyS
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Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 197
Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Alan,
When I jack up an Olympic I usually drive the car on to 2 or 4 blocks of wood to start with to give the car extra height to get a trolley jack under. At the front on both Phase,s use a long x 10cm wide x 4cm thick block of wood (A) across under the front subframe. (I prefer to use 2 trolley jacks, 1 under each lower wishbone) At the rear jack the axle under the Diff, but watch the car does not tip sideways. On a P11 I use 2 trolley jacks under the axle each side of the Diff. When the car is up in the air always use Axle Stands, I use 4 wooden blocks 15cm x 15cm x 4cm under the floor at point (X) as in the photo. The position (X) is also the place I position the pads when using a 2-Post Ramp. If you do have to take a wheel off and do not have an axle stand always push the wheel under the car incase the jack comes down or slips.
Tony.


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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Location: Littleborough

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tony.
A picture paints a thousand words and the additional words provided also make lots of sense to me.
I now feel 100% OK with the jacking and supporting locations, thanks.
A 2 post lift / ramp would be perfect, but I can't justify the cost to myself, at the present time.
I am AOK using axle stands and timber spreader pads.
I am just wondering if 500 mm height axle stands are going to give me enough room for comfortable access on a mechanic's creeper, or if there are any better / higher / low cost support systems available?
Alan
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John Plant
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Joined: 07 Nov 2010
Posts: 109
Location: Herefordshire

PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Allen
I would go with all Tony's suggestions, although I have a two post hoist I still use long spreaders to lift the body up. Same with a wheel jack I have a scissor jack with a piece of wood, I would not trust the original jacking points.
If you want to take the engine out I personally would not have the body too high as most of the work is through the bonnet anyway, at this stage lift just enough to get under the car to move any bolts, there is no many underneath any way. You can always lift it up afterwards if the engine and gearbox are out with help you can lift up by hand.
Not wishing anyone to tell the how to suck eggs the body can easily be blocked up on wood bearers across the car and not length ways large pieces as well as I have learnt that lesson by using small pieces and the falling of the blocks.

Regards

John
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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Location: Littleborough

PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello John.
Don't worry about teaching me how to suck eggs; I haven't sucked these ones before, that's why I'm asking the people who have.
Thanks for the useful advice and information.
Regards,
Alan
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Howard Evans
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Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 99
Location: Crewe

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:50 pm    Post subject: Jacking Reply with quote

Hello Alan,

Taking into account some of the points already made, I have a pair of ramps which start off flat and then can be raised with a ratchet socket or gun once the car has been driven on. They're ideal for the minimum ground clearance of Rochdales.

I believe they are made by a firm in Heywood. When new they're quite expensive but I picked mine up very reasonably through Ebay. Absolute godsend!

Howard
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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Location: Littleborough

PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Howard,
Thanks for the info.
C J Autos at Heywood looks like the company?
Looking at the website they have an interesting range of options for lifting cars (& motorbikes).
They also appear to sell their standard range of products at £Website minus £VAT on EBay.
I am tempted but too thrifty at this stage.
Maybe one for the future when I know what's what.
Regards,
Alan
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