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Olympic Phase 2 - 900 HLR - Build Diary
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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 90
Location: Littleborough, Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good progress Gary Very Happy
We are so fortunate in having fibreglass bodies, as it makes it so much easier to modify than metal. Long live fibreglass!
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Phase 1R Olympic
MM 1098 Engine & Gearbox
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Gary Tipping
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 65

PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Alan, yes it would be so much more difficult if the parts needed to be welded. In fact I don't think I would have even started!

Gary
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Dave-M
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Joined: 20 Jan 2006
Posts: 377
Location: Yorkshire, England

PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 1:19 pm    Post subject: Olympic Reply with quote

Gary,

So that we can enjoy your build thread even more I wondered if you could outline your intended specification for the mechanical bits ie. engine, gearbox and axle.

Regards, Dave
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Ph.2 Ford 1500 GT
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Gary Tipping
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 65

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave,

My engine choice is a 1500cc Ford pre crossflow, I chose this for several reasons. I would like to run the car in some form of historic sprints and hillclimbs. I've checked with the Hillclimb and Sprint Association and the engine needs to be of a type that the car could have been supplied with. I feel it's better to restore the car with a 'period' engine, rather than go modern. The third reason is, that a mate of mine was removing a pre crossflow from his Marcos.
My plan is to run this with a Mazda RX8 6 speed gearbox, I have an adaptor plate to mate this to the engine. This is a conversion popular with the Escort mk1 and mk2 owners. I have a Ford 4speed box as back up if I run in to problems. The two boxes are around the same length, although the gear stick will be further back with the RX8 box. I have plans for a remote gear change to put the stick in the ideal position.




The back axle, I believe is Riley 1.5, Derek Bentley kindly donated the axle casing fitted with the Rochdale brackets, I've fitted a 3.9 diff which should work well with the Mazda gearbox and 14" wheels.
Keith Hamer has modified the radius arms and torque reaction arm and fitted rose joints. Dampers and springs are AVO.

The front suspension is Triumph Spitfire, which will be mounted on a new subframe, again supplied by Keith.

Cheers

Gary
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Gary Tipping
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 65

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting very close to fitting the engine under tray and bulkhead panels, so I'm trying to think of everything I can do while being able to stand in the engine bay. I've finalised the position for the bonnet hinges, so thought I would carry out the repairs on the bonnet, which can then go on out of the way. The bonnet had seen plenty of 'action', not the least from where I modified it to take the Bedford hinges!




Also fitted a honeycomb mesh grill




The next job was to wrestle the under tray and bulkhead in to position.











I'm also preparing to install the back axle, so I've undersealed the new wing panels and sprayed everywhere else with stone chip.

At least it's a bit warmer in the garage now!
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Dave-M
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Joined: 20 Jan 2006
Posts: 377
Location: Yorkshire, England

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:53 am    Post subject: Olympic Reply with quote

GO Gary!!!

Dave
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Alan Smith
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Joined: 10 Jan 2016
Posts: 90
Location: Littleborough, Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go Gary indeed Very Happy
That is a great spec Gary and it is so useful and interesting to hear the reasoning behind it.
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Phase 1R Olympic
MM 1098 Engine & Gearbox
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Gary Tipping
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 65

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still finding things to do, that are easier while I can still stand in the engine bay.

I made paper templates for the heat mat I'm fitting, and cut them out, this will go on the bulkhead, sides of the footwells and under the bonnet.




Planning to put the bonnet back on tomorrow, to sort out a bonnet catch.
I haven't glued the under bonnet piece in as yet.


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Gary Tipping
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2021 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

had a real disappointment with my bonnet. When I fitted it after the repairs, it didn't fit by some way. Repairing the under bonnet channel had pulled it out of shape. I've had to cut a couple of pieces out of the channel to allow it to 'relax' back in to position. I emailed Keith, and was assured I could get a new bonnet if it all went wrong! a great relief.

Dave sent me a link to the 'goodwood' race car. I've copied their idea of fitting a couple of NACA ducts in the cheeks in front of the radiator, to duct some cool air to the carb, and to under the bonnet generally. another job that is easy to do now but would be much more difficult once the under tray and bulkhead are in position.








Exciting day tomorrow, I have a friend coming round for a coffee / help me install the back axle.
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Gary Tipping
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the back axle is in place, and I have added the brakes and transverse handbrake cables. A stubborn bush in the Panhard rod is preventing me from fitting that at the moment.

As the radius arms have been rose jointed, the point at which they locate to the body has moved to nearer the front of the car. I've cut out the front of the recesses and now to form a strong location for them.








Could't resist trying a wheel. I'll need to trim the wheel arch rim a little, and hope I don't have to resort to reducing the wheel hub thickness, as someone suggested on Facebook


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Dave-M
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Joined: 20 Jan 2006
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Location: Yorkshire, England

PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 10:34 am    Post subject: Olympic Build Reply with quote

Hey Gary, More good progress.
The NACA Ducts look great, did you do the design and 3D printing? They should go some way to help cold air to the engine bay.

Shame about the bonnet, just a pain to put right.

It must be quite satisfying to fit the back axle and the Rose joints seem a sensible modification to allow some movement during roll. Can I ask why you chose to extend the length of the lower arms and not use the existing mounting position for the joints? I am sure you have it under control but it might be worth checking your rear seat mountings don't collide with the new trailing arm mount positions.
What joints are you fitting to your Panhard rod and will it be adjustable?

Awaiting your next episode, Dave
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Gary Tipping
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave,

I bought the NACA Ducts, I was surprised to see they were 3d printed.
The bonnet fits ok now, but I have some work to make it look good.

Keith modified the arms for me, he warned me I would need to extend the 'box' where the bush would normally locate. I will have to think how this will integrate with the seat runners. as luck would have it, the MX5 seats I plan to use need to be raised from the floor, so I may be able to 'bridge' the radius arm fixings.
At the moment I have bushes both ends of the Panhard Rod. it seems to be ok, but very close to the diff with the suspension on full droop. Do you think it needs to be adjustable? The torque arm has a rod end on the body end, so that's adjustable.

Good to get the back axle in, I can now use it as a datum to position the front subframe. As the engine bay floor and front bulkhead have been cut out I don't have any other point to work from.

Cheers

Gary
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Dave-M
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Joined: 20 Jan 2006
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Location: Yorkshire, England

PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:27 pm    Post subject: Olympic Reply with quote

Gary Tipping wrote:

At the moment I have bushes both ends of the Panhard Rod. it seems to be ok, but very close to the diff with the suspension on full droop. Do you think it needs to be adjustable?
Good to get the back axle in, I can now use it as a datum to position the front subframe. As the engine bay floor and front bulkhead have been cut out I don't have any other point to work from.
Gary


Gary, The following is just my two penn'orth on the rear suspension/axle.
If you are squeezing 165 or greater section tyres under the rear arches I would certainly make the panhard rod adjustable as you will be working with minimal arch clearances. Also it is more than likely that the shell is not symmetrical.
I am just embarking on some rear suspension mods and have decided to use the lower outer corners of the heel board as the datum points for both the rear axle and the front suspension as both can be aligned square, to the floor pan of the shell, independently of the other.

Regards, Dave
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Nick Reynolds
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Joined: 31 Mar 2018
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2021 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gary Tipping wrote:


I bought the NACA Ducts, I was surprised to see they were 3d printed.

Gary


On the 60's Elan (and +2) the air cleaner tube terminates just in front of the radiator with a filter element. The tubes of which are pointing backwards towards the rad. It seems counter intuitive but - I'm told - the idea is that the air is high and constant pressure at that point and relatively still.
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Gary Tipping
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Posts: 65

PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2021 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your post, my ducts will be just in front of the rad, so hopefully ok.
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