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Window Regulator

 
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Howard Evans
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Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 98
Location: Crewe

PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: Window Regulator Reply with quote

Does anyone have a good window regulator for the RH (driver's) door of a Phase II Olympic for sale?

Alternatively, can anyone tell me from which car they were sourced?

Many Thanks,

Howard Evans
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Olympic PhII CTO 289B
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keith hamer
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Joined: 28 Jan 2006
Posts: 216
Location: Ellesmere Port

PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: window regulator Reply with quote

Howard

We have repaired these winders in the past, they are prone to stripping the gears which can be welded and re cut. If this is your problem we may be able to help.
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Howard Evans
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Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 98
Location: Crewe

PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:58 pm    Post subject: Window Regulator Reply with quote

Hello Keith,

I suspect that this is exactly the problem. Increasing amounts of backlash and now jumping teeth.

I've yet to strip the door down (Probably when I lay the car up for winter in November, so I'll contact you again then.
Also I'm now proceeding down the 'Alan Farrer' route for my rear axle upgrade - Reliant Robin. I will need the necessary brackets to be fabricated and welded in place so would be pleased for you to do this when the time comes. Would that be OK?

Thanks,

Howard
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keith hamer
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Location: Ellesmere Port

PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: rear axle Reply with quote

No problem, I am sure we can help, contact me when you are ready and we will look into it.
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Bill Coyne
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Joined: 06 Jun 2009
Posts: 15

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Re: Window Regulator Reply with quote

Howard Evans wrote:
Hello Keith,

I suspect that this is exactly the problem. Increasing amounts of backlash and now jumping teeth.

I've yet to strip the door down (Probably when I lay the car up for winter in November, so I'll contact you again then.
Also I'm now proceeding down the 'Alan Farrer' route for my rear axle upgrade - Reliant Robin. I will need the necessary brackets to be fabricated and welded in place so would be pleased for you to do this when the time comes. Would that be OK?

Thanks,

Howard


Many years ago I owned an Olympic and am now looking for another (I Know of one currently for sale at 15K but that's plain daft).

Anyway, I'm intrigued by the statement " 'Alan Farrer' route for my rear axle upgrade - Reliant Robin". Can you explain further.

I have a Robin axle on my trike so I'm familiar with them and having difficulty believing dimensionally (width-wise) and power-wise (torque) they are up to the job. I may well be wrong but either way please be aware most Robin axles have tubes that are by now nearly rusted through and for safety's sake ought be replaced (forgive me if I'm teaching Granny to suck eggs).

Alan
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Howard Evans
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Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 98
Location: Crewe

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Olympic Rear Axle? Reply with quote

Hello Bill,

Just to put it in context, I've been trying to solve 2 issues with my Phase II - a too low final drive ratio (3.7:1) and chronic crown and pinion noise. To attempt to fix the latter, I recently fitted a rebuilt unit only to find it dramatically worse than the one it replaced! I gather axle noise is endemic to Olympics.

Anyway, in conversation with others, I was told that Alan had fitted a Reliant rear axle to his Olympic and I've been guided by him in terms of what is required. A type A axle gives 3.23:1 and he has done many thousands of miles on his in silence. Surprisingly, the track is only 2" narrower than the original (fixed with wheel spacers). Replacement brackets to replicate the attachment points of the original were welded on and it went straight in even without mods to the propshaft. So that's the plan!

I'll let you know how I get on but it's definitely one for the winter months.

Regards,

Howard
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Bill Coyne
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Joined: 06 Jun 2009
Posts: 15

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Olympic Rear Axle? Reply with quote

Howard Evans wrote:
Hello Bill,

Just to put it in context, I've been trying to solve 2 issues with my Phase II - a too low final drive ratio (3.7:1) and chronic crown and pinion noise. To attempt to fix the latter, I recently fitted a rebuilt unit only to find it dramatically worse than the one it replaced! I gather axle noise is endemic to Olympics.

Anyway, in conversation with others, I was told that Alan had fitted a Reliant rear axle to his Olympic and I've been guided by him in terms of what is required. A type A axle gives 3.23:1 and he has done many thousands of miles on his in silence. Surprisingly, the track is only 2" narrower than the original (fixed with wheel spacers). Replacement brackets to replicate the attachment points of the original were welded on and it went straight in even without mods to the propshaft. So that's the plan!

I'll let you know how I get on but it's definitely one for the winter months.

Regards,

Howard


Hi Howard.

I agree the type A axle ratio (same as my trike) and can see it may have certain advantages over some other axles (relatively light weight and probably able to cope with output of old 1.5 BMC lumps and similar). However, if the car has been fitted with a more powerfull engine I'd want to be certain the axle can cope and those 2" spacers might test the integrity of the (old) axle tubes.

Incidentally, should you find the axle drum brakes (Mini size) not adequate then, as many trikers do, you can convert to disc without too much pain. You may have already considered that option in which case I apologise once again (granny and sucking eggs thing!).

Best wishes for your project.

Alan
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Howard Evans
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Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 98
Location: Crewe

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Alan,

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't considered uprating the rear brakes as I think the back end is a little over braked already with the relatively low weight on the axle.
On the other hand, the front brakes are rather puny by today's standards so maybe rear discs as a part of an overall upgrade............?
Maybe for next winter!

The engine is a standard 1500 Ford pre-crossflow with plenty of torque for pulling the higher ratio. I'm aiming for more relaxed high-speed cruising, rather than outright performance, so the final drive will not be exposed to wide-open throttle 'sports' driving.

However, based upon your advice, I think I'll retain the current axle after the change 'just in case'!

Thanks,

Howard
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keith hamer
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:42 am    Post subject: 'A' series axles Reply with quote

A couple of thoughts on rear axles and brakes. Brakes first, the rebuild of my lightweight is going on at a pace now, (should be finished this decade) and one of the things we found very early in the process is that the rear brakes on the car are MG Midget as apposed to Riley/Wolseley as appears to be the norm, the fronts are solid discs sourced from period formula Ford, as the brake system wasn't split adjustable I suspect that the small rear brakes were done to reduce the rear brake effort and prevent locking up under hard braking. I guess if ever I get the chance to drive the car we will find out.

Over the 40 or so years we have been driving Olympics around I have experienced a number of different Olympics with varying amounts of axle noise, WFV 812 was unbelievably noisy, so I too rebuilt a diff and fitted it to the car, bu'''' me it was worse, the current car I use as a daily is lovely and quiet (relatively) so I guess the answer is finding a diff that suits the cars characteristics which could be expensive.

How about an overdrive box, the one in my Reliant Scimitar is 4 speed O/D and pulls 27mph in top overdrive. Another alternative could be the Ford type 9, 5 speed, this should be a relatively easy fit to a Ford engine. It may be worth looking at the MT75 Ford box too, we have an example of both if you want to way up the possibilities, and a couple of pre crossflow engines too.

Jason is currently looking at a Toyota Celica 5 speed box for his 'A' series powered car.

How's that for throwing a rock in the pond.
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Bill Coyne
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 'A' series axles Reply with quote

keith hamer wrote:
A couple of thoughts on rear axles and brakes. Brakes first, the rebuild of my lightweight is going on at a pace now, (should be finished this decade) and one of the things we found very early in the process is that the rear brakes on the car are MG Midget as apposed to Riley/Wolseley as appears to be the norm, the fronts are solid discs sourced from period formula Ford, as the brake system wasn't split adjustable I suspect that the small rear brakes were done to reduce the rear brake effort and prevent locking up under hard braking. I guess if ever I get the chance to drive the car we will find out.

Over the 40 or so years we have been driving Olympics around I have experienced a number of different Olympics with varying amounts of axle noise, WFV 812 was unbelievably noisy, so I too rebuilt a diff and fitted it to the car, bu'''' me it was worse, the current car I use as a daily is lovely and quiet (relatively) so I guess the answer is finding a diff that suits the cars characteristics which could be expensive.

How about an overdrive box, the one in my Reliant Scimitar is 4 speed O/D and pulls 27mph in top overdrive. Another alternative could be the Ford type 9, 5 speed, this should be a relatively easy fit to a Ford engine. It may be worth looking at the MT75 Ford box too, we have an example of both if you want to way up the possibilities, and a couple of pre crossflow engines too.

Jason is currently looking at a Toyota Celica 5 speed box for his 'A' series powered car.

How's that for throwing a rock in the pond.



Keeping the present axle (provided it's in good order) and changing the gearbox sounds good to me.

Getting a bit off topic but you revived memories of my Scimitar motoring of yesteryear. The overdirive on 3rd and 4th gears effectively gave a 6 speed box at the flick of a switch. It worked very well indeed though if I recall correctly it was bulky and quite heavy.
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